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Belgium, Summer 2002

Preview of Belgium

This is just a preview page. I still haven't put up a page for the Paris trip or completed the Spain trip yet. By the time I actually finish any of these no one will be interested in reading them.

During the Spring airfares were quite good to Europe so I decided to take my daughter Randy to Paris during her spring break. We had a great time during our week in France. Shortly after we returned, we started talking about where to go for our Summer Vacation. Sally and Randy like the beach, so we usually end up in some place like Cancun or Hawaii, but I'm not that much of a beach person so I decided to look for something a little bit different. Again the prices to Europe were still low so we decided to go to the Costa del Sol in southern Spain. Spain was a good compromise since Sally and Randy could enjoy the beach and I could go visit places inland. So, that was pretty much it for vacations for this year, but then Alcatel, the company that I work for, decided to shutdown all US offices for two weeks as a cost cutting measure. Now, I don't have a lot of vacation time and I certainly don't want to waste it by sitting at home for two weeks. Sally and I got on the web and started looking for bargain vacation packages. Basically, we were looking for any place that looked interesting and wasn't expensive. As it turned out Europe was still relatively inexpensive so we booked a trip to Belgium.

We chose Belgium because it is central to a lot of places. For example, it is only a 2 hour train ride from Brussels to either London or Paris. We decided that we could take a quick look at a number of places and if we liked some place a lot we could come back later and explore it in more detail. Sally and I got a good deal on a flight to Brussels and hotel for a week. The plan was to use Brussels as a base and take day trips to various cities. We decided to alternate long travel days (Luxembourg, Koln and Amsterdam) with short travel days (Bruges, Ghent, Antwerp and Brussels). The longest of the trips was about 3 hours each way. A number of people asked us if we wasted a lot of time by raveling back and forth to Brussels each day, but it really wasn't bad. If we had decided to travel to each city we still would have ended up with the same time to get to each city. Once there we would have had to take time to check into a hotel and then check out later the next day. We had the added bonus of not having to schlep our luggage around and pack and unpack each day. The disadvantage was that we could see the cities that we visited at night.

The Hotel

Several People have asked me why I put something on my website about the hotel, but one of the first questions that people ask me after I get back from a trip is "what was your hotel like?". The difference between a four star and a two star hotel in the package deal wasn't very much so Sally and I decided to go for the four star hotel. The hotel turned out to be much nicer than we expected. The room and a full sized bed, a sitting chair, table and a small desk with a chair. The bathroom was very nice and Sally really liked the bathtub. Our room was on the quite side of the hotel, away from the street, unfortunately, beneath our window was some ventilation machinery for either our hotel or the building next to us. The machinery wasn't that loud, but it emitted a high pitched sound. The first two nights it wasn't that bad, but the third night it was really bothering me and I finally asked the hotel to change our room. We lucked out, the hotel didn't have very many rooms left and ended up moving us to a room that was twice the size of our original room. The new room had a larger bed, two nice sitting chairs, a sofa and even a balcony.

Sunday - Brussels

We left L.A. on Saturday morning and arrived in Brussels on Sunday morning. We took the train from the airport to a station near our hotel and then a cab to the hotel. By about noon Sally and I were on our way to explore Brussels. We bought some metro passes and took the metro to the Grote Markt. The AAA "Essential Belgium" describes the Grote Markt "to be one of the most beautiful squares in the world and is an oasis of light and peace in the heart of the city". We then walked to St. Michel, on the way stopping at the Galeries St. Hubert. After St. Michel's we were a bit tired, so we decided to take a bus tour around Brussels. On the tour we saw the Atomium, a 102m/335ft high model of an an Iron molecule which was built for the 1958 World Fair and the Parc du Cinquantenaire with its arc de triomphe. After the bus tour Sally and I went to the Musees Royaux des Beaux-Art which is a world class museum. We say several beautiful Sisleys, a Monet, a number Magrittes, Ensors, Khnopff and Rodin.

Monday - Luxembourg

We purchased a Benelux train pass which allowed us to take the train anywhere in Belgium or Luxembourg. It was about a 3 hour train ride to Luxembourg City. I think that if Luxembourg City had been part of Belgium and not in a different country we wouldn't have visited it. The guide books gave it a two star rating and I think its big appeal was that we got to visit another country. Both Sally and I were extremely happy that we visited Luxembourg, it was one of our favorite cities on the entire trip. Luxembourg is very tourist friendly without being annoyingly touristy. Luxembourg City sits on a plateau so there are many places where you can look out across a beautiful view of the the city or country side. The first place we went was the Petrusse Valley which is a large park in the city that is very pretty and very relaxing. There really aren't a lot of tourist type sites in Luxembourg but it is a very charming, beautiful and friendly city. One place where Sally and I spent a lot of time was the Bock Casemates which is a defensive labyrinth dug in the sandstone plateau of the city in 1745. We also took a tour of the Royal place.

Tuesday - Bruges

Bruges is an extremely well preserved 14C - 15C city with canals and very interesting old buildings. This city is very highly rated in the tourist guides. The city was only an hour train ride from Brussels. The day we visited Bruges the temperature cool and the sky was cloudy with threats of rain. We had to take a bus from the train station to the town which wasn't any trouble. The bus let us off near Market Hall. Our first stop was the Belfry, and 84m/275ft tower built originally in 1493, but replaced in 1741. Sally and I walked to the top, but since the day was cloudy, the view at the top wasn't great. When we got down it started to rain a little bit, fortunately we had brought umbrellas. One of our guide books had a map of Bruges, but it seemed to be worthless, we couldn't match up any of the street names. While looking around we saw some sign posts similar to the ones we had seen in Brussels and Luxembourg which pointed the way to various sites. When we got close enough to read the signs we saw that what they pointed out was the directions to various hotels. After trying to find our way unsuccessfully we stopped at the tourist information center where we had to purchase a map for 1 euro (In every other city we got a map free). After we got our map we walked to one of the main canals. By this time it had stopped raining and Sally and I decided to take a canal tour before the rain started again. The canal tour was very good. The boat driver asked everyone what language they spoke and the gave the tour in all of the requested languages (4 English, Dutch, French and German). We spent a lot of time going through the old churches and walking the streets. We went to the Groeningemuseum which was very disappointing because almost all of the exhibits were closed for renovations. On the way back to Brussels Sally asked me what I thought of Bruges and I said "I feel like I've been battered and Bruged". The place was very pretty, but too much of a tourist trap. If the buildings weren't actually five hundred years old one would have felt like it was Walt Disney's idea of a medieval city. I'm happy I visited Bruges, but I probably wouldn't go back

Wednesday - Köln

Koln is a 3 hour train ride from Brussels. Our Benelux train pass wouldn't take us to Koln Germany so we had to buy a ticket for Germany. We decided to take the high speed train, but it turned out that they are still working on getting the high speed trains rolling and it really wasn't much faster than the regular train. Koln is a great city to visit in a day. Everything is close together and near the train station. The first thing we did was purchase a WelcomCard at the tourist office by the train station. The tourist card is a fantastic deal which gives you access to museums, mass transit and large discounts on a number of things in the city. We started with the DOM cathedral. The Dom is Germany's greatest cathedral. It was started in the 13C but wasn't completed until 1880. The Cathedral as a large number of stained-glass windows and two massive towers. Sally and I climbed all the way to the top of the tower. One thing that was very disappointing was all of the graffiti on the church. Actually graffiti is a big problem all over northern Europe. I don't think I saw a single flat surface that didn't have graffiti. Sally and I then went to the Wallraf-Richartz Museum. This was another world class museum. They had a large number of Caillebotte's, really the finest collection I've seen. All of the museums in Koln didn't allow photos, so I only have pictures of the DOM. Next we went to Heinrich-Boll-Platz museum which house a collection of modern art. After that, we wen to the Romisch-Germanisches Museum. Koln became a Roman city in 53 A.D. and the museum houses Roman artifacts from the ancient city. This museum turned out to be much more interesting than I thought it would be and we spent a lot of time there. Unfortunately the last train for Brussels left Koln at 6pm so we had to leave the city early, but Koln rated very highly on our list of favorite cities.

Thursday - Ghent

The tourist guides basically stated that Ghent was a second rate Bruges - a well preserved 15C city with canals. After our experience at Bruges I thought about taking Ghent off our list and going somewhere else, but Ghent is pretty close to Brussels (only a 30 minute train ride) so I figured if we didn't like it we could easily go somewhere else. Ghent ended up being much more enjoyable than Bruges. The look of the city was essentially the same as Bruges, but Ghent is a college town and doesn't depend on tourism to make it run. We took a canal tour (not as good as the one in Bruges since the tour taped) and visited a number of the churches, including St-Baafskathedraal, St-Kiklaaskerk and St. Michielsburg. We also visited the Belfort, Lakenhalle, Stadhuis and Grasiei.

Friday - Amsterdam

Surprisingly, our Benelux train pass took us to Amsterdam which is a 3 hour train ride from Brussels. We began our trip to Amsterdam with a 1 hour tour of its famous canals. The architecture of Amsterdam isn't as interesting as that of Bruges or Ghent, but we did enjoy the canal tour. We then took a tram to the museum section of town to see the Van Gogh museum. The Van Gogh Museum has some of the best paintings in the world located in one of the worst museums that I have ever been in. First, building is ugly, on par with some of the uglier sections of LACMA. Secondly the lighting isn't very good. Third, while the museum has some benches in it, only a couple of them actually face any paintings. The Van Gogh Museum was the worst museum experience I've ever had. I've been in museums where people crowd around a particular piece of art such as the Venus de Milo or the Mona Lisa at the Louvre, but I had never experienced anything like the Van Gogh museum. Everyone who entered the building queued up and walked in single file past every painting on the main floor of the building. Oh, you could try to break out of the queue and stand an look at a picture for a while, but only if you are tall enough to look over the heads of all of the people marching past the paintings. If you venture off of the main floor, things do get better and there is actually a nice little impressionist section with a lovely Monet on one of the other floors. I would like to visit this museum at sometime other than peak tourist session to see if it is any less hateful. Sally and I walked around the city a bit. We checked out the red light district and the hash bars which were interesting. One thing that we didn't like about Amsterdam was that it was very crowded. Neither Sally nor I like crowds, so we would like to return to this city during the off season.

Saturday - Antwerp

By Saturday Sally and I were pretty tired. Fortunately Antwerp was only a 45 minute train ride from Brussels. Antwerp was another city that we both enjoyed quite a bit. We went to the Grote Markt and saw the Kathedraal with its 123m/403ft tower. The Cathedral was supposed to have two towers, but the second one was never completed. We also visited the Stadhuis - the town hall which was build in 1564. The most fascinating place we visited was the Rubenshuis. Unlike many artists whose work were unrecognized in their lifetime, Ruben was a wealthy man at a fairly young age and build himself a large mansion in Antwerp. The Rubenshuis was a little expensive, but we liked it. Antwerp reportedly has a very good zoo and Sally and I considered going to the Zoo, but at this point in our trip we hadn't purchased any souvenirs to bring back for friends. Souvenir shopping consisted of buying large quantities of Belgium chocolate to bring back to friends. By the time we finished shopping it was a bit late to go to the zoo and we were tired so we headed back to the hotel.