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Paris August 2003

Monday

Alcatel, the company that I work for, had a two week shutdown at the beginning of August. This meant that I was forced to take two weeks of my vacation. I used the first week to go to east coast to see my family and friends and go to Terry Snyder's wedding. On Sunday I met Sally at JFK and flew to Paris. We booked the trip through Expedia and this was the second time in a row that I wasn't too happy with them. When we booked the trip the website told us that we would fly from New York to Paris. After we had paid we got a confirmation from them which told us that our flight was from New York to Amsterdam and then to Paris. A similar thing had happened to me when I booked my trip to Strasbourg last spring. The website initially indicated that I would have a flight from L.A. to Paris and then Paris to Strasbourg. What I ended up with was a trip from L.A. to London Heathrow and then from London Gatwick to Strasbourg. So basically I hate Expedia. (But, if they're cheap enough, we'll probably use them again.) The flight to Paris wasn't too bad. When we got to Paris we decided to take the train from the airport into Paris. The automatic ticket machines were broken and they only gave me one ticket when I had purchased two. We then had to wait in a long line to get a second ticket. Then, when we got to Paris my ticket wouldn't let me out of the station. It took us a long time to find someone that could help us and while we were wandering around the station Sally misplaced her ticket. Bottom line, if there is more than one person travelling the cost of the train tickets to Paris for two people don't justify the inconvience. Once we got to our hotel things started going right and we had a great time exploring Île de la Cité. We first went to see Sainte Chapelle and the Notre Dame. We went to the Mémorial de la Déportation and then to the Louvre. We also went to see the Hôtel de Ville. Last winter when Randy and I went to the Hôtel de Ville there was an ice rink in front of it that was open to the public. This time there was sand and volleyball courts. The mayor of Paris had been told that many people cannot get away from the city in August, which is the customary vacation month in Paris, so La Plage de Paris was born. It was very hot in Paris (this was the month that 3000 people died in France due to the heat), but having spent over two decades of summers in Los Angeles, Sally and I didn't mind the heat too much. When we did get warm, Sally did as the Parisians do and cooled off in the fountain in front of the Hôtel de Ville. At night Sally and I took a boat ride down the Seine. Sally really loved Sainte-Chappelle and found the Memorial de la Deportation very moving and considered Paris at night on the Seine to be the ultimate in romance.

Tuesday

This was Sally's first trip to Paris, but my fifth trip. Before starting the trip we had agreed that I would go to see some of the main attractions of Paris that I had seen a number of times before and Sally would agree to see some of the lesser known spots in Paris that I hadn't seen. We started the day by going to the Cimetière du Père-Lachaise which is the largest of Paris' cemetries. It was a pleasant walk through the cemetry and we saw the graves of a number of famous people including Oscar Wilde and Jim Morrison. We then went to the Buttes Chaumont, which is a park in the northeast of Paris. This was a really great park and both Sally and I enjoyed it quite a bit. We then headed down to the Bois de Vincennes which is a large woods at the southeast of Paris. There's a cool castle at the Bois but it's under rennovation right now so we couldn't enter. Later in the afternoon we crossed over to the left side of the river to see several churches; St Germain and St. Sulpice. That night we went to the Arc de Triomphe and the Grande Arche.

Wednesday

Sally and I started the day with a trip to the Jardin des Plantes and the Natural History Museum. The Jardin des Plantes is a lovely garden at the east of Paris and the Natural History Museum is located next to the garden. The museum was a lot of fun and I would highly recommend it, especially if you have kids. We then went past the Paris mosque, but didn't go in. We visited the Arènes de Lutèce, which is the ruins of an old Roman theater. Along the way we passed by the remains of one of the old Roman walls of the city. Next stop was the Panthéon. This really wasn't on our list of things to do. Randy and I had been to the Panthéon in the spring of 2002 and thought that it was okay, but not great, but since Sally and I were in the area and we had a museum and monuments pass we decided to take a look. I actually enjoyed the Panthéon more the second time than the first. The hugh modern sculpture that had been there the previous time was thankfully gone and the pendulum that Foucault did his experiments with was back where it should be. Sally and I took a walk down the boulevard St. Michele and then took the metro to the Parc Monceau. The park was really great and Sally and I spent a couple of quite hours just relaxing there and cooling off. After that, we went to a Continental restaurant near our hotel, which we chose because the sign on the door read 'climatisation' (air conditioning). Wednesday was the hottest day there and we were pretty warm by then. The meal turned out to be outstanding, if a bit pricey. We had a lighter selection of restaurants than one would at other times of the year; many proprietors are away on vacation in August. The ones we did visit, however, were all very good.

Thursday

Sally and I started the day at the Rodin museum, which is one of my favorite museums. This was the second time in a week that I had gone to a Rodin museum. The previous Thursday I had gone to the Rodin museum in Philadelphia. We then went to the Hôtel des Invalides to see Napoleon's tomb. Randy and I had been to Invalides in the spring of 2002 and it was better then, but Sally really enjoyed it anyway. This time there was a special exhibit that wasn't has good as what one would normally see. Sally and I then went to the Musée de l'Armée, which is the military museum. The museum was very interesting, but it was hot that day and the museum was quite stuffy so we didn't stay as long as we would have otherwise. Sally and I then walked to the Pont Alexander III, which is probably Paris' most beautiful bridge. Next we went to Orsay museum which is my favorite museum in Paris. That night Sally and I went to Montmarte to have diner and afterwords went to Pigalle to look at the Moulin Rouge and to see the Musée de Erotisme. There are apparently entire bus tours devoted to Pigalle, which is the Red Light District of Paris. We didn't indulge. We did visit a few lingerie shops and saw plenty of tattoos and piercings, which made it seem a bit like Hollywood.

Friday

By Friday the heat had finally broke and the day was quite pleasant. Unfortuantely, both Sally and I were pretty tired, not to mention damn near crippled, and so we decided to take it easy that day. Before going to Paris I had arrange to meet my friend Philippe and his family for lunch on Friday. Philippe lives near the Château de Vincennes. Afterwards Sally and I went to the Palais Royal, which has a nice garden and then over to the Place de la Concorde. Next we went to the Bois de Boulogne, which is a very large wooded area on the west side of Paris. Later on Sally and I went to the Jardin de Luxembourg, which was near our hotel in the Latin Quarter. At that point Sally declared her feet officially dead and we returned to our hotel and packed up for the long trip home. Paris is one of my very favorite cities in the world and Sally decided that, despite the condition of her feet, it was now one of hers, too.

Saturday

On Thurdays we heard on the news that there was a big blackout that had affected the entire northeast of the United States and large parts of Canada. To return home Sally and I had to: fly from Paris to Amsterdam, Amsterdam to New York JFK then from New York LaGuardia to Chicago and then to L.A. There really was no good reason for us to stop in New York except that I had spent the first week of my vacation in New York so I had two sets of tickets one for L.A. - New York and one for New York to Paris. When we heard about the blackout we called the airlines and asked about delays. They told us that there would be no problems. On Friday the northeast was still blacked out and we called the airlines again. We asked them if they could route us through a different city. We thought that this would be helpful to both us and the airlines but they told us that everything would be running on time. Before we went to bed on Firday night we called the airlines again and again they told us that everything would be find.

Sally and I had to get up at 5 a.m. on Saturday morning to catch our flight. We took a taxi to de Gaulle. When we got there we met a number of people who had been at the airport for over 24 hours trying to get to New York. This didn't give us a good feeling. Fortunately there weren't any problems at de Gaulle and we got to Amsterdam without any problems. When we got to Amsterdam we had about a 20 minute walk to get to our departure terminal. When we got there there were a number of people who had been waiting over 24 hours to get to New York and they were not in a good mood. The ticket gate was understaffed and no one could get a boarding pass. Everytime we started to queue-up they would force us to all sit down and wait. As soon as someone arrived at the counter Sally jumped in line and was about 3rd. When she got to the agent she told the woman that she wanted to make sure that Sally and I sat together. The agent at the gate told her OK but when Sally got the ticket the seats numbers were not consecutive and Sally started to complain to the agent but the agent explained that the tickets were in business class. So, Sally and I got to fly from Amsterdam to New York in Business class, which was great. I actually slept most of the way which is unusual for me. When we got to New York Sally and I took a cab to LaGuardia which was only a couple of cents more than taking the bus. When we got to LaGuardia the place was a madhouse. There were people that had been sleeping at the airport for days. There were so many people that we had trouble getting to the boarding area get to get our boarding passes. Our flight was marked as On-Time, but it was clear to Sally and me that since there were 3 other flights that needed to take off from our terminal before our flight that there was no way that it would be on time. The airlines people kept telling everyone that there would be a slight delay. First they said on time. then twenty minutes late, then 40 minutes late, then an hour late. Remember that we had to make a connection at Chicago and that was looking less likely every minute. Finally, after our flight had been delayed two hours we could board our plane. Before boarding we were told that our plane, that was going to Phoenix via Chicago, would not be going to Phoenix and would stop in Chicago and that it would not be making any of its connections. We were told that we could wait until Monday (this was Saturday night) to get another plane, but the airline would not put us up in a hotel or we could go to Chicago and take our chances but if we did the airline wouldn't help us get a connection. I said to Sally that we were going to Chicago. LaGuardia was a mess and it wasn't going to get better anytime soon. Sally and I were unable to sit next to each other on the flight to Chicago. The flight was bumpy and Sally got air sick. When we arrived in Chicago the connection that we were supposed to have taken two hours before turned out to have been delayed as well and we managed to board the plane just before it was about to take off. In the end, we made it to L.A. only two hours late.